What to see in Soldano: a comprehensive guide to the medieval village and its atmosphere

The heart of Soldano is its medieval historic centre, once known as Castrum Soldani. As soon as you enter, you notice it straight away: narrow alleyways, stone houses built close together, arches and covered passageways.

Walking here is like stepping back in time. The streets criss-cross in a constant up-and-down pattern, made up of covered stairways that open onto little squares bathed in light, seemingly dead-end alleys that give way to unexpected exits, and shortcuts connecting seemingly distant points – but that’s precisely the beauty of it: discovering, trying things out, exploring – it’s all part of the experience.

Don’t miss:

• Via San Mauro, the heart of the fortified village
• the picturesque Barcuneire, the zig-zag defensive passage
• the little glimpses of sky between arches and staircases
• the patches of blue sky peeking through the walls of the houses

Via San Mauro is the oldest and most symbolic street in Soldano, the very axis around which the medieval village developed. This narrow alleyway, nestled between tall stone houses, forms the heart of the fortified system of the ancient Castrum Soldani.

Here lie some of the most significant traces of the village’s history: the ancient entrance gates, the covered passageways, the hidden staircases and the structures built to defend and connect every part of the settlement. Walking along it means journeying through centuries of daily life, where defensive needs and architectural ingenuity have merged in a balance that remains perfectly evident to this day.

Continuing along Via San Mauro, you’ll come across stone arches, vaults and passageways that connect different levels of the village, like little secret passages. Among these are the Scala Grossa and the evocative passage known as the ‘Cappello della Strega’ (the Witch’s Hat), linked to folk legends.

Walking here means truly entering the soul of the village: a place where every stone tells a story and where time seems to have stood still, leaving the charm of an authentic place intact, to be discovered step by step.

Just a short walk from the historic centre lies Piazza San Giovanni Battista, dominated by the town’s main church, dedicated to the saint of the same name.

Inside, you’ll find:

• a Renaissance altarpiece
• an ancient, working organ
• decorations and works of sacred art

If you look up towards the rooftops of the houses on Via San Mauro, you might catch a glimpse of the dome of the first parish church of St John the Baptist, now incorporated into a private residence. This was once the village’s main place of worship, before the current church was built in the 19th century. Its original entrance was situated right along this street, now almost unrecognisable amongst the houses.

It is one of those details that make Soldano unique: its history is not on display, it is hidden. You catch a glimpse of it, sense it, and discover it only if you look closely.

If you fancy exploring the surrounding area too, the Church of San Mauro, nestled in the countryside along the Verbone stream, is well worth a detour: a peaceful spot, accessible only on special occasions, which retains its authentic charm.

Amidst the medieval alleyways, a new yet perfectly integrated space emerges: the Piazzetta del Rossese. Here, the star of the show is the region’s iconic wine, Rossese di Dolceacqua. The paving, in fact, features a modern mosaic depicting a vine leaf, whilst a number of panels tell the story of the grape variety and its producers. It’s the perfect spot to stop, take a break and perhaps attend an event or set off on a tour of the vineyards.

Soldano is not just a village: you only need to walk a few minutes to find yourself surrounded by nature, and the path through the vineyards is one of the most beautiful experiences to enjoy in the area. A moderate/easy walk to explore the countryside surrounding Soldano, passing through fields of mimosa, olive trees, broom and, of course, rows of vineyards cultivated on terraces supported by ancient dry-stone walls. The perfect way to discover the true essence of Western Liguria, where the view stretches from the Mediterranean to the Maritime Alps, offering panoramas that fill the soul with serenity and gratitude.

The real secret of Soldano is this: it isn’t a museum, it’s a living place. People greet one another in the street, the shops tell stories, and the squares become meeting places. Here, at the end of the day, you find yourself with a glass of Rossese in your hand, sitting at the wine bar, thinking that yes, authentic places like this do still exist.